We know that we may have a flea problem occasionally as pet owners. However, if it spirals out of control, it may be frustrating, painful, and itchy! Fleas used to be a severe worry regarding disease transmission, especially the bubonic plague, sometimes known as the “black death.” Although disease transmission through flea biting is uncommon in Australia, tapeworms and murine typhus can be transmitted. The good news is that there are some simple preventative actions you can take, as well as flea control treatments for your dogs and home, to help you get rid of any flea infestation.
FLEA IDENTIFICATION
Flea eggs are whitish and have a diameter of around 0.5mm. They are laid on the host (cat or dog), but they readily fall off. Thus, they can be discovered all over the house, especially in the regions where the pet naps and relaxes.
The larvae look like white worms with a few bristles. They are 1-2mm in length when they hatch. The larvae go through four moults, during which they become darker and more extended. They can grow up to 5mm in size by the time they’re ready to pupate.
The larvae spin a pupa after they are fully developed. Because this white oval cocoon is sticky, it attracts dirt and becomes difficult to see. In ideal circumstances, the adult will hatch in 5-14 days.
Many people will see a bit brown / dark brown patch (1.5–3mm) on their skin and have no idea what it is, but they may suspect a flea when it jumps. Fleas are insects. Thus, they have six legs despite the lack of wings. Adults are slender to let them move freely through their hosts’ fur and hair.
SIGNIFICANCE OF INFESTATION
Fleas are usually discovered first if the cat or dog is constantly scratching or bitten by a household member. You might be able to avoid a significant outbreak if you take action now to gain control.
When families return from vacations, significant outbreaks are common. The flea population has exploded in their absence, with thousands of adult fleas waiting for a blood feast!
PRIMARY PEST CONTROL PERIOD
Fleas are more active during the summer. Because the larvae are prone to desiccation, they need to develop in a warm, humid environment. However, in colder areas where heating is used all year, a flea infestation can still occur during winter.
FACTS ABOUT FLEAS
To survive, flea larvae need a warm, humid environment. Although they are commonly found under carpets and pet bedding, they also thrive on damp, sandy soils in the shade during the summer. Any of the pet’s frequented areas (for example, beneath the house or on the deck) could be a source of infestation.
Flea pupae can lay dormant for months, waiting for a suitable host to come along. Before emerging from the pupa and leaping onto the host, they detect the vibrations of a passing animal.
Before producing eggs, adult female fleas require a blood meal.
Most consumer pesticides are ineffective against flea pupae. Pupae may continue to hatch for another 2-4 weeks following therapy. This can give the homeowner the impression that the treatment is ineffective. The majority of adult fleas, on the other hand, will pick up the residual pesticide on the carpet and die as a result. (B2B Pest Control Pro-Fogger, on the other hand, is unique.)
PREVENTION GUIDELINES FOR FLEAS
Keep up with your pet’s flea treatments.
Vacuum carpeted areas (including under furniture) and pet bedding regularly.
Pets should not be allowed in the sub-floor regions.
TIPS FOR GETTING RID OF FLEAS
You must get rid of fleas as soon as possible if you have a flea infestation.
Whether you have one or two fleas or a massive infestation, you must be thorough. There are no shortcuts for flea treatment because you never know where the eggs, larvae, or pupae are hidden. Just a couple of fleas can quickly evolve into a bug infestation!
B2B Pest Control has a 5-step technique for treating fleas that have been proven to work.
The 5-step Process will help you get rid of fleas:
Step 01:
If you suspect a flea infestation, the first step is to vacuum the entire house (carpeted areas, timber and tile floors and furniture). Make sure to clean under the table, around the corners of the room, and down the gaps in the furniture. Place the contents of the vacuum cleaner in a sealed plastic bag and throw it away right away.
Step 2:
Everything that can be washed in a washing machine, including bedding, furniture covers, clothing, and rugs, should be done in a hot wash cycle. Another approach is to store such goods in sealed black plastic bags in the sun for 1-2 hours, as the heat will destroy all phases of the flea life cycle. If you’re not sure whether the cloth can be washed or can withstand temperatures of up to 70°C, let it alone and apply a flea treatment (Step 4).
Step 3: Treat the pets who have been harmed.
Apply a flea treatment to your pet as directed by your veterinarian. (One of the main reasons for flea breakouts is not keeping your pet’s flea treatment up to date.)
Step 4: Treat the interior of the house
Inside the house, apply a flea treatment. A professional pest controller can be hired, but householders can purchase the essential chemicals at their local hardware shop and do the therapy themselves (at a significant saving).
Use a flea bomb or a flea fogger in all rooms where the pets have been. These products are also known as total release aerosols since they release all of the products once activated. Except for the most protected dead places, the light mist floats inside them. To get the most out of your system, open all cupboards and drawers and eliminate anything that could obstruct airflow.
When using flea bombs, it’s critical to read the label carefully and follow all safety precautions. The following are some essential standard instructions:
Remove any exposed clothing, food, and utensils.
Remove all pets and plants from the room.
Fish tanks should be covered.
Before using, turn off all sources of ignition (flames, pilot lights, and electricity).
Smoke detectors should be turned off or dimmed.
Fans and air conditioners should be turned off.
Before using the treatment room, close all doors and windows.
After you’ve started the flea bomb, get out of the room as soon as possible.
After using the treatment room, leave it for 2 hours.
After the treatment, air the room and wipe out all surfaces.
Dead insects should be vacuumed up.
Activate the smoke detectors.
Because flea bombs do not penetrate the flea pupae, adult fleas may emerge 1-2 weeks after treatment, causing a brief epidemic, which is promptly controlled by the residual insecticide in the carpet.
For any spot treatments or “dead” patches where you suspect the mist from the flea bomb may not have reached, use an insecticide spray (aerosol or pump pack) that is registered for flea usages.
Step 5: Take the treatment outside the house.
Many homeowners overlook this step, which is a typical cause of re-infestation.
Any outside spaces where your pet likes to relax should be treated. These are usually cold, sandy spots in the shade, ideal for flea larvae. Tick and flea treatment with B2B Pest Control Pro Hose-On Tick and Flea is a simple and effective treatment of significant areas. Ensure that the pests are kept clear during the treatment and until complete. Any sub-floor sections should ideally be built to keep pets out.
It takes some time and effort, but doing it correctly the first time ensures you get rid of the flea quickly and don’t have to re-treat.
FLEA PROFESSIONALS FROM B2B PEST CONTROL
To properly get rid of fleas, you must do a complete flea treatment that entails various actions and a variety of treatments. B2B Pest Control has several professionals that are effective against fleas.
